Let me tell you a story about a man. That man went to Bharatpur, a small city about 200 kilometers from Jaipur. There he went, all excited, to visit Keoladeo Birth Sanctuary. Before he went there he read all kinds of bad press that the place was dry, just a shadow of its former glory, and that it was not worth visiting anymore. All that was just a bunch of crap!
This place was magnificent, for several reasons. First of all there was nobody there, finally I was at a place that is supposed to be peaceful, and actually was peacefull to. I probably was one of the 4 or 5 foreigners visiting that place, and I really enjoyed it. Finally some rest in a weekend-trip, an escape from the busy city life that covers so many of the other tourist destinations. The second point that made this park great was the lack of motorised vehicles. God bless the authorities to keep these tin cans of noise and pollution out of a beautiful park. The last thing were I want to be when watching wildlife, is in a noisy and uncomfortable jeep packed with a pack of other tourists. This time I just rented a big. And no, there was no rickshaw-wallah driving it for me, I was using my own legs! Most of the Indians were probably pretty amazed to see a western tourist drive a bicycle with 43 degrees in the afternoon, but hey, maybe I`m not like that lazy bunch of “developed” people. Besides that, I like a bit of exercise, and the occasional “looking up of your physical borders”. And so I did. I saw wildlife, in silence, very close. I`ve seen jackals crossing the path, I`ve seen at least 4 different species of deer (all pretty impressive), I`ve seen ducks, peacocks, and a freight of small and big birds. And all from a close distance, and in peace. Although the park itself might be at a critical point in its time (the water level is kept at a acceptable level by using pumps), it was still a unique experience and one I won`t forget soon. This was day 1 of my stay. I stayed at a hotel called the Jungle Lodge. It was a nice place with an even nicer garden and hosts.
The next day I went back to mass-tourism in India: I went to Fatehpur Sikri. I took the bus, since I hate trains in India (too many people crammed in the sleeper department, no nice views, a lack of escape routes). Although the bus might be a bit less saver, and maybe a bit more uncomfortable thanks to the heat, I like it. I sitting with the Indian lower-middle class next to me, and just travelling through the country like they are doing. Fatehpur Sikri is a place were about 500 years ago, an eccentric Indian Sultan called Akbar, tried to set up his new capital. He did so succesfully, only to notice after a few years that the place was so dry that it could not sustain itself. It was thus abandoned. Like all thinks in India it must have layed in ruins for some time, untill a team of English archeolegists decided to restore it. And a nice job they did. The palace itself is a bit alienating if you have seen other structures in India. Hinduist architecture is mixed with European, Muslim and Budist styles, to create a whole new style for itself. It was a nice place to visit, although the tourist guides (touts) were quite annoying. “No sir, this building is very big and you will not see everything when you go alone. You will not know the story behind the building. And no sir, your book has a description maybe but it is not precise.” I just said that there is no story behind the building (got the arrogant laughing reaction; so predictable) and that I want to guide myself through it. Guides just rush through the whole structure, and I don`t like following them, I like to determine my own route and pace.
There was also a large Mosque-Palace complex, where I again felt very guilthy. A boy working for the place wanted to guide be through the complex, saying he was doing it for free, and I did not believe him. Eventually I let him guide me through the complex, with constantly the idea in the back of my mind that he would ask for rupees. I was a bit harsh on him all the time, just listening to him and not asking too many questions or showing too much interest. The place was beautiful and interesting though. At the end, he said:”Well sir, this is the end of the tour, thank you for visiting and have a good time”. No question about money, maybe he did expect it, but he did not push it. He was thus a true gentleman. Damn. My distrust against people surrounding tourist monuments made me so cold that I did not threat this boy (who was only practicing his English) nicely.
